Sep 5, 2023·edited Sep 5, 2023Liked by Dr. Kathleen Waller
What my clothes say about me is that I have very little interest in fashion, yet nothing could be further from the truth! Long-standing issues with body image have made it difficult for me to indulge my interest but I admire it as an art form, the skill it requires to make, and even seeing a person walking down the street wearing something that suits them perfectly.
In recent years I've seen the David Bowie exhibition at the V&A which I mention in an upcoming piece on the Thin White Duke, so it was nice to see the Starman clip here. It was the McQueen outfits that stood out for me. The tailoring! The V&A also had a Grace Kelly exhibition which we saw by chance having gone to see some Raphael cartoons and got there a bit too early! The vintage dresses were - as you can imagine - a sight for sore eyes. I enjoyed a Mary Quant exhibition at the V&A which was shown around the same time as one on Dior. Friends told me how amazing the Dior one was and I can well imagine - the queues for it when we went to see Quant were long. There was less interest in Quant but that was the one I had wanted to see : she has always been a style icon for me and I thought her designs really were revolutionary. We also saw a small number of Vivienne Westwood creations at an exhibition in Southport once. She was one of the greats.
Last year I wrote an article on Isabella Blow. I'll just provide the link for you here Kate. She was a legend in the industry!
Love this article -- thanks so much for sharing it! Always feel free to share your work in the comments :)
The V&A has some of the most amazing fashion shows. I missed one (last year?) on masculinity that I was dying to see. Need to get on their mailing list and coordinate with my trips to the in-laws.
So interesting how you describe the difference between how you think people see your fashion choices and how you see fashion. I think sometimes also 'plain' choices - black t-shirts, jeans - can be powerful ones.
Thanks, Kate,I just thought the Blow article fed into this as she was not only influential but had a wonderful daring style all of her own.
I heard about the masculinity exhibition but I don't know anything about it. I would go and see anything at the V&A!
Yes my dress style these days moves between simple and scruffy with occasional stabs at looking a little more groomed, but just to scratch an itch I once bought a dress at a Biba concession in a closing down sale at a department store. I've had it 6 years and only worn it once but I love it 😄
I thought the Quant exhibition was really interesting too. I took a group of students to see it. It was such a clear example of how objects tell a rich and layered story about cultural, political, technological and social history.
The V&A is stunning, indian cloth and design of many cultures... Japan, Asian culture on cloth... The sewing in silk strands I would love to revisit V&A.
I heard that the Dior one was amazing. The queue to get into it certainly testified to that! In the Quant one there were garments loaned by people who had bought them decades ago. Marvellous stuff.
Love this, Kate! I am not a fashionista either, and I always envy those people who seem to have an innate sense of style - which I think is slightly different to fashion, in that it is the way they wear clothes which sets them apart. But your opening around identity is what interests me. I have been thinking about this a lot lately (probably more than is warranted, frankly!) But I think the word 'transitions' here is key. I know that I have moved through several transitions in my lifetime of clothes-wearing and styling (as we all do) and I have been playing around with this in the past year or so as I hit 50. When I was a new mother, for example, I had to adapt my former professional wardrobe to jeans and t-shirts, but I was always concerned with not adopting that 'mumsy' look. When I ran an arts business, I was constantly covered in paint and clay dust and so wore jeans and t-shirts all the time for work, teaming these with more 'boho' headbands and scarves, which seemed to fit the vibe then. When I returned to work in an office part-time, I notched it up to a bit more professional, of course, and now that I work between an office and home as a writer, what I have found is that I feel the need to still wear smart-ish clothing on writing days, albeit a bit dressed down, as it makes me feel I am taking my writing more seriously. Probably silly! But I really think that far from frivolous, what we dress ourselves in (call it fashion or not) affects the way we feel about our roles and our self-esteem in general. I know that as I am 'transitioning' into a new phase of life atm, I have swapped out some of my older clothes for ones I feel reflect where I want to head next! Thank you for another thought provoking post - I look forward to the rest of the series :)
YES YES. These are some of the things I go into more in the linked article for Modern Women. Especially with maternity clothes - man, I really really didn't want to wear them! And I mostly got away from wearing them just because I'm little, but then when I finally embraced some, I felt myself more comfortably moving into a different phase of my life. The same with work - as you describe.
Thanks so much for this brilliant comment.I really love your point about style as well. I see it a lot in Paris - as if it's something learned just by living there - but not only. And occasionally I would have high school students who just seemed to possess it innately. It seems closely linked with confidence, but also some power from aesthetic.
You know, Violette the makeup artist is someone who is very interesting to follow in this regard. I think she very clearly shows how it is confidence and joy that make it work. I mentioned her a few months ago. --
"But I really think that far from frivolous, what we dress ourselves in (call it fashion or not) affects the way we feel about our roles and our self-esteem in general."
I think I've only really come to feel this, but it can have such an impact. Perhaps for some people it doesn't, and for some it may feel that it shouldn't, but for me it certainly does. I always loathe going clothes shopping, especially for the $ that I would rather spend on things that are locally/ethically made etc, but upon returning home with something lovely I always feel invigorated by the experience. (Obviously I then forget that invigoration and feel a lot of reactance about going shopping again, which is why it doesn't happen very often!)
I also hate going shopping, Nathan! I much prefer to buy online these days as I always end up buying things in a panic in the shop. I prefer to try them at home where I feel more 'myself', though this does then mean returning items sometimes...What I have really found has helped in the past 12 months or so is to nail down exactly what it is that I feel most 'myself' in (in whichever role I'm going to wear the thing) and then try to only buy something that fits with that. I still make mistakes though!
Love all these tips and strategies...as well as confessions. :)
I can only online shop if I really know the brand. I do it mainly in the US where the deals are 🔥 and I can pick it up whenever I'm on my annual trip home. What's interesting online though is that you can - as you say - do it when you're in the right frame of mind.
That's a great strategy. My wife has certainly turned more to online shopping for clothes after identifying the stores that work well and fit well for her.
Such an interesting post, Kate. Thank you. I love your denim outfit. That’s pretty much my wardrobe. Double denim and converse, or denim and checked shirt with converse. In the winter, the same but with docs. Though winter jumpers and huuuuge woolly scarves are my favourite. I don’t think my ‘staple’ style has changed much over the years. Not including the 80s of course... but we won’t talk about that...
How lovely to think that we are twinning as we get carried away in our research and writing! :)
Yes, let's not talk about the 80s is a good MO for most people old enough to have been dressed then, I think. I will admit to having a pair of MC Hammer and Milli Vanilli inspired baggy pants in 5th grade. I'm so pleased there weren't any smartphones back then!
I’d say we should all share our 80s pics, but I’m afraid mine are at the back of a storage unit. Phew! Ohhh, the perm, me too! Held in place by extra strong Insette hairspray :)
It's a delight not knowing what you're going to cover each week, Kate. (Perhaps I should pay more attention to when you mention what's coming, but I enjoy not knowing 😄)
So glad that you enjoyed the podcast!
Fashion. I've been a bit of a bystander, never quite knowing quite what to wear and what suits me, having to rely upon girlfriends and ultimately my wife to advise me best haha. I think that stems from a lot of lack of confidence as a teenager and not being in enough with the "it" crowd to either pay attention to fashion or be bold enough to experiment/go with the trends. However, I really really connected with the discussion in the podcast and your words here about fashion as helping you to play a part in a role. It's certainly helped me. Back when I was a working magician, a smart-casual suit helped to put me within the role I was acting out. Same with teaching and lecturing, I usually start smart and gradually slide towards a more relaxed attire as semester moves on and I get to know my students 😆 I used to think that it was because I cared somehow about the appearance, but it's actually more aligned with the clothes helping to reinforce the character and enabling me to step into that role more easily. I'd say that right up until hearing that podcast I thought that being able to play multiple roles throughout a day/week was some kind of inadequacy, that I should just be myself as much as possible, but it was incredibly refreshing to hear that a chameleonic nature can actually be a valuable skill.
And as always, your wonderful post has sent me down a spiral of thinking, and a rambling reply hehe.
OMG Nathan, I read the top quickly and thought I had made a dreaded typo ;)
The podcast was amazing! I never expected it to say something about fashion. I'm eager to continue listening to both Fridman and Bach.
I like the conclusions you made from the podcast. It's so interesting with the teaching role, isn't it? When I started out, I tried to dress 'older' to gain some gravitas, then became more relaxed, then again back toward 'sophisticated' as I went into leadership. In the end, I think it's how you feel in the clothes. Relatedly, I always enjoyed teaching in high schools without uniforms to allow the kids to really let their personalities shine. (I know there are lots of benefits to school uniforms as well, especially for income disparity.) Of course, at university you get this as well. But I wonder from your description of your teen years if this had anything to do with uniform wearing. I'm only assuming you wore a uniform in the UK? I did not. I had a lot of trial and a LOT of error, but maybe it gave me a sort of safe experimental time for clothing choices. There is also safety in numbers when your friends are wearing similar items. This is a big enough tangent for an article, so I'll pause there. :)
Thank you - as always - for comments that are in turn thought provoking!
I wore a school uniform (which everyone hated, of course) but the school both my kids have attended doesn't. It causes a lot of debate amongst parents, but I agree with you that it allows the personalities to come through. The school is a high achieving secondary in the UK, but the governors and staff always pride themselves on welcoming difference and personal expression, so there are some weird and wonderful examples of fashion on awards evenings and such!!
I really think we ought to embrace the experimental teen personas without the need to be cool or succumb to peer pressure. Some people do it very well their whole lives.
My sentiments exactly! :) oh, there are some marvellous hair colours in the school! A work colleague of mine has always had her hair in a rainbow, and I am always amazed by how she does it!
That's interesting. I've always wondered what the proportion of schools that do or don't do this is. I imagine it breeds some bullying, unfortunately, but welcoming difference and personal expression from a young age is likely a good thing.
Hehe sorry I should have included their first names too to make it clear what I had meant ;) Just thought it was an interesting coincidence.
That's fascinating re: your experience, too.
And yes, huh, I'd never thought of that aspect but I *did* have to wear a uniform all through school. There was certainly simplicity in conforming via uniform, but then in A-levels we had freedom to wear what we wanted, and I do remember thinking that I essentially had zero knowledge of what would constitute fashion and I wasn't self-analytical enough at the time to question what it is that I wanted to wear etc.
I can see the comfort of a uniform. I think it’s how I treated “work clothes” for a long time as well. Although not the same every day, it was a kind of uniform for a role - and also with the ease of not choosing all that much. About blending in perhaps.
I love this fashion topic... Kate you look great in your outfit... Maybe a scarf, neckerchief can add a touch of something special too...k If you knew me you'd understand why I say thatl... I am a designer of silk scarves. But wanting to also design in cottons soft materials so this fashion topic interested me immensely. I love the images on the catwalk thank you for sharing these delights.
A silk scarf designer? How wonderful. Feel free to share a link. Whilst living in France, I felt naked without a scarf and have a little collection (nothing like yours, I'm sure!). Good idea :)
I ended up caring more about fashion after moving abroad; in California the incentive to be fashionable was simply not strong enough. And Europeans place more importance on it; integration/assimilation means having to care. But I also liked that in France the brand mattered little, if at all. More important was how an individual could customize their fashion accessories in order to produce an individual mix. What made me appreciate fashion more was how, in France at least, it is the last form of artistic expression that is truly individualistic.
I spend more money on books than clothes, like Desiderus Erasmus. But if I was more of a dandy I'd invest in styles that reconnect with cultural uniqueness. Nordic fashion, for instance, has a regional distinctness I like. I don't like the bland sameyness that many call fashion nowadays, and it's bittersweet looking at the old photos and seeing what was lost.
Even so, I maintain that the utility of the t-shirt should not be underestimated. Whether it's love of a band or adherence to a cause, it's the most effective way of communicating certain things that one might otherwise have to be delicate about. :-)
Thanks for this wonderful reflection, Felix. I can relate with this change from the US to Europe. Your ideas about Nordic fashion are especially interesting. I don't know a lot about it, but I could see that. I think there is much more to explore...
I'm off just now to a French bookshop just over the border. Likewise, these spaces take a lot of my cash :)
Very interesting article, Kate. I'm not that interested in fashion per se, but have always been interested in how it reflects the (forthcoming) economic climate.
I do, however, have a thing about dressing well in public, even if just casual wear. For example, when I worked as a teacher, plus in local govt, central gov and then independently, I always wore a suit and tie or jacket and tie. As a teacher it was to act as a role model to the students and to show them respect. in my other roles it was in order to gain respect. I get quite annoyed when I go to, say, an education conference/exhibition and am "served" by someone in jeans and a t-shirt. I just think, if I'm here to potentially spend several thousand pounds on your product, the least you might do is not look like you've just tipped out of bed. Sorry if that sounds snobbish.
Thanks for sharing your article! This is becoming a hyper doc of some other great texts.
I know what you mean re teaching and attending lectures (or when I used to hire teachers...). I think sometimes the casual choice is a conscious statement, against authority for example, however I think there is not so much a line but a language of clothing that one should be aware of. You make your choice accordingly. Personally, I just felt more professional and confident in that kind of clothing most days while teaching. I didn’t mind if I was heading off to coach or something like this and wore casual clothes for that reason. Then the students could see another side as well, but a minority of the time.
Thanks for this, Kate. A lot of food for thought. You managed to make it interesting even to me even though I usually only admire fashion from afar.
I would define my fashion style as non-committal - or bland, as my wife puts it. My ideal fashionista is Jeff Goldblum's character in "The Fly" - a scientist who owns about ten identical suits, so he doesn't have to waste time every morning deciding what to wear.
Believe it or not, I have not worn denim for more than 20 years. Too cold in winter, and wearing blue jeans in summer in Japan feels like self-inflicted torture to me.
Sorry I can't send you a photo of me wearing my writing clothes... In Yokohama it's still hot and muggy, so I'm almost naked.
You have a lot of practical applications. That’s great! I like your icon choice 😂 very nice. Well sometimes the argument for uniform is simply saving time. It seems to me you have a lot of things you are doing and working on, so maybe fashion just gets int he way!
Thanks for reading and thanks for not leaving a photo ;)
Loved this! I’ve come full circle. The corporate business suit-and heels-days are mercifully over and I’m back in my Bean boots and flannel shirts. (NB: this doesn’t translate well to the Arizona desert)
Oh I know the Bean boots so well, though. Gave up my pair when I moved to Hong Kong. Could be time for the next edition. How did we wear heels everyday?
Thank you, I am enjoying my designing - today I am illustrating a dog for a book I am planning ... That is very kind of you to allow me to show a link - I am based in England I only make what is needed - so as to eliminate extras anywhere. I guess it makes my scarves more unique with limits - I can offer varying colourways to suit ...hope you like my new designs 7 silk scarves.
A great set of ideas and videos about fashion, Kate, thanks for this brilliant post. Loved the David Bowie video from 1972.
My relationship to fashion has totally changed as I've got older. I used to spend way more time and money on my wardrobe than I do now, I guess as I was figuring out how I wanted to present myself to the world. It doesn't take up much of my headspace anymore, so I have a few staples that are gradually getting more and more worn out. And occasionally my wife will add something in to my wardrobe for me that she finds on Vinted or in a charity shop whilst looking for stuff for herself.
What a great reflection. This is possibly true for many of us, I think? Although at times of transition, I guess I still spend a little more time on the clothing once again as a reflection of the changes (as I mention in the embedded “Modern Women” article - work, maternity, etc.).
I recall many outings to Urban Outfitters (and the vintage bargain basement) as well as other exciting Cambridge (MA) destinations in my teen years that lasted HOURS. Now, when I go to Urban, I know what I want a lot more quickly and possibly have less ambling time on my hands. It’s also great to have those gifted items — something somebody who cares for you imagines as ‘very you’. My husband also does this occasionally and although sometimes I’m not sure about said item at first, I tend to warm into it.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts and all the kind words!
I think time has got a lot to do with it. My relationship with time is so fraught. Sometimes I wear the same outfit for days because it's comfortable and I have no space in my brain to think of anything else. I love how my wife wears something different and interesting every day, gets 'properly' dressed, and I wish I felt like I had capacity to do that.
It's so different for me working from home now. I try to wear something put together for school drop off, but occasionally it's running gear -- I simply pretend I'm on my way for a jog. And there is always the denim jumpsuit. Occasionally, I get freaked out by not being a 'part of society' if I haven't put myself together for public spaces. I see this in contrast to my husband as well. More often, though, I find it freeing to be able to code switch at will. I think it depends how I'm feeling about my writing on that particular day!
Yes, I know what you mean about being put together for public spaces. What motivates me most to put any thought into my outfit is if I know I'm going to be actively looked at - i.e. if I'm going to a meeting or seeing friends or teaching (or if I'm going to see my mother). Otherwise it's just what's comfortable, clean, and in my sight line. Sometimes I feel bad for my wife that she mostly sees me wearing a t-shirt and track pants again.
The exhibit was in 2011 so I’m mostly recalling the presentation in the installation of his gothic gowns and his exotic flowing gown creations which stood out the most. The exhibit spanned his post graduate career until his last runway show in 2010. I remember attendees just gaping in awe. If you google SAVAGE McQueen exhibit at the Met and V&A there is a trove of photo’s and articles that my memory and writing skills can not do it justice.
Sep 5, 2023·edited Sep 5, 2023Liked by Dr. Kathleen Waller
I liked the fact you started by saying about the inner strength gained from your peers when they donned on the 'cape of power' be it a hat, a robe, it was of great interest to learn about your experiences.... However to brush by so many elements of history of art, design and culture, not mentioning the opulance and stature needed by a few to be shown to the masses, to warrant position, power and intrigue.
I am a royalist and I like to keep our countries heritage of the royal family in high regards and respect its heritage and history, even though there have been dark phases, it has brought us to a time where we are able to question right from wrong, and although history CANNOT be re written of prefabricated it now has a chance to grow with a righteous and healthy opinion and purpose. Helping more whom truly need help.
It is a shame that the frivolity of the fashion world like to down grade the royals, it is unashamedly in poor taste, especially as many see the Royal family as a measure of our stability in a world that is so volatile..
Monarchy and all it stands for does bring a vast amount of wealth to our country, the way our King, (as when he was a Prince) and now, has been manifesting such established colleges, and fine architecture in Cornwall, now had to pass the baton to Prince William, it is in itself a powerful dressing of fashion in the form of bricks and mortar but also in its culture nurturing future trades, and artisan arts and crafts for the future, aswell as offering a good process of sustainable agriculture and local farming, this too is another form of dressing our country in the form of land, trees, foliage, flora and fauna, which in turn offers the ability to make clothing for local future fashion within our towns of England, Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland.
Especially as the heritage, culture, fashion, exquisite cloths of times even before 2000BC in my mind is like a dream so far away.... And our own heritage of royalty spans milleneums, a family being royal encapsulates a world few of us really would like, but the old power of royalty donned on those capes to win battles, fight for freedoms, and encouraged wealth into our building heritage with Royalty Aids, through the ages. They too were aspiring for attention so they could enjoy wealth and high life, enabling a strong future existence of life, for their children and future children...
Times move fast these days, we used to say old news of yesterday were tomorrow's fish and chip wrappings ...(.l must mention we were so eco friendly right there.)
I'd love to hear more about the history, culture of linens, silks, cottons and how it became so famous with the silk road, oplulent times, opulent clothing,.
We all like to be seen at our best, special functions, yet we did also like to dress more, respectfully daily...it has all changed, seeing people in housecoats in the streets... Where has dignity gone?
What I can never quite get to grips with is... I can understand wanting to show how great one looks, but why then show themselves at their worst?
If fashion, top fashion is what we like to see, why isn't it being reflected in the everyday people's world...
At a lighter budget...
Everyday Quality of clothing has downgraded for sure, there now needs to be a force for quality, organic, long lasting materials, no plastic recycled clothing which is harmful to our skins promoting cancers, but organic, sustainable, quality made, garments for beautiful fashion for all to buy at a price which is sensible, fair and have the special pieces for special occasions...
I too went off on many tangents, easily done, with such a huge topic... I think breaking it down into bite size topics will be fun to read, and a rewarding piece of literature, rather than scanning lots of data.
Refining and defining specifics is a great way for the topic of fashion to be expressed over vast historical eras, encapsulating differing cultures.
Climates of varying countries not just its weather, but its social and economical climates have all played a part in the growth of fashion today, and at the front if it all is
😊 what the people admire,
😊 why they admire it, and
😊 how it makes them feel, to be part of their culture, their time, sharing with their friends and family...
Do we conform to fashion, or are we steering the fashion of clothing, to fit our times our changing world.
Thank you for sharing your writings today, I hope you didn't mind me responding...
What my clothes say about me is that I have very little interest in fashion, yet nothing could be further from the truth! Long-standing issues with body image have made it difficult for me to indulge my interest but I admire it as an art form, the skill it requires to make, and even seeing a person walking down the street wearing something that suits them perfectly.
In recent years I've seen the David Bowie exhibition at the V&A which I mention in an upcoming piece on the Thin White Duke, so it was nice to see the Starman clip here. It was the McQueen outfits that stood out for me. The tailoring! The V&A also had a Grace Kelly exhibition which we saw by chance having gone to see some Raphael cartoons and got there a bit too early! The vintage dresses were - as you can imagine - a sight for sore eyes. I enjoyed a Mary Quant exhibition at the V&A which was shown around the same time as one on Dior. Friends told me how amazing the Dior one was and I can well imagine - the queues for it when we went to see Quant were long. There was less interest in Quant but that was the one I had wanted to see : she has always been a style icon for me and I thought her designs really were revolutionary. We also saw a small number of Vivienne Westwood creations at an exhibition in Southport once. She was one of the greats.
Last year I wrote an article on Isabella Blow. I'll just provide the link for you here Kate. She was a legend in the industry!
https://open.substack.com/pub/juliadpickering/p/mixed-media-12isabella-blow?r=1hm9gb&utm_campaign=post&utm_medium=web
Love this article -- thanks so much for sharing it! Always feel free to share your work in the comments :)
The V&A has some of the most amazing fashion shows. I missed one (last year?) on masculinity that I was dying to see. Need to get on their mailing list and coordinate with my trips to the in-laws.
So interesting how you describe the difference between how you think people see your fashion choices and how you see fashion. I think sometimes also 'plain' choices - black t-shirts, jeans - can be powerful ones.
Thanks for such a great response!
Next time you're in London it would be nice to meet up. Bring a chaperone if you wish, in case you think I'm a serial killer
That would be great! We can meet at one of Jules' music haunts from 'earlier days' (her words)...or just a Substack meetup at a pub works, too :)
or a cafe. I'm not really a pubby person tbh. Or you could go to a pub, me to a cafe across the street, and text each other 😁
On Notes 😂
Cafes are good 👍🏼
😀
Thanks, Kate,I just thought the Blow article fed into this as she was not only influential but had a wonderful daring style all of her own.
I heard about the masculinity exhibition but I don't know anything about it. I would go and see anything at the V&A!
Yes my dress style these days moves between simple and scruffy with occasional stabs at looking a little more groomed, but just to scratch an itch I once bought a dress at a Biba concession in a closing down sale at a department store. I've had it 6 years and only worn it once but I love it 😄
Sometimes it's the things we have that we know we can wear for just the right moment that are the most special :)
I thought the Quant exhibition was really interesting too. I took a group of students to see it. It was such a clear example of how objects tell a rich and layered story about cultural, political, technological and social history.
The V&A is stunning, indian cloth and design of many cultures... Japan, Asian culture on cloth... The sewing in silk strands I would love to revisit V&A.
Beautiful museum.
The textiles from those cultures are unbelievably beautiful aren't they?
The V&A exhibitions sound fantastic.
I heard that the Dior one was amazing. The queue to get into it certainly testified to that! In the Quant one there were garments loaned by people who had bought them decades ago. Marvellous stuff.
I saw Dior!! it was really fantastic.
Have you seen Mrs Harris Goes to Paris? Silly but fun and with a great message.
I haven't seen that, no. I'll look it up - thanks!
Yes, my friend who was a fashion designer for years went to see it and said it was out of this world. I'm glad you saw it!
Fantastic. I'd especially love to see a Bowie exhibit.
Love this, Kate! I am not a fashionista either, and I always envy those people who seem to have an innate sense of style - which I think is slightly different to fashion, in that it is the way they wear clothes which sets them apart. But your opening around identity is what interests me. I have been thinking about this a lot lately (probably more than is warranted, frankly!) But I think the word 'transitions' here is key. I know that I have moved through several transitions in my lifetime of clothes-wearing and styling (as we all do) and I have been playing around with this in the past year or so as I hit 50. When I was a new mother, for example, I had to adapt my former professional wardrobe to jeans and t-shirts, but I was always concerned with not adopting that 'mumsy' look. When I ran an arts business, I was constantly covered in paint and clay dust and so wore jeans and t-shirts all the time for work, teaming these with more 'boho' headbands and scarves, which seemed to fit the vibe then. When I returned to work in an office part-time, I notched it up to a bit more professional, of course, and now that I work between an office and home as a writer, what I have found is that I feel the need to still wear smart-ish clothing on writing days, albeit a bit dressed down, as it makes me feel I am taking my writing more seriously. Probably silly! But I really think that far from frivolous, what we dress ourselves in (call it fashion or not) affects the way we feel about our roles and our self-esteem in general. I know that as I am 'transitioning' into a new phase of life atm, I have swapped out some of my older clothes for ones I feel reflect where I want to head next! Thank you for another thought provoking post - I look forward to the rest of the series :)
YES YES. These are some of the things I go into more in the linked article for Modern Women. Especially with maternity clothes - man, I really really didn't want to wear them! And I mostly got away from wearing them just because I'm little, but then when I finally embraced some, I felt myself more comfortably moving into a different phase of my life. The same with work - as you describe.
Thanks so much for this brilliant comment.I really love your point about style as well. I see it a lot in Paris - as if it's something learned just by living there - but not only. And occasionally I would have high school students who just seemed to possess it innately. It seems closely linked with confidence, but also some power from aesthetic.
Ah, to emulate the style of the Parisian woman...
:)
You know, Violette the makeup artist is someone who is very interesting to follow in this regard. I think she very clearly shows how it is confidence and joy that make it work. I mentioned her a few months ago. --
https://www.violettefr.com/
Her newsletter is marketing but also personal.
"But I really think that far from frivolous, what we dress ourselves in (call it fashion or not) affects the way we feel about our roles and our self-esteem in general."
I think I've only really come to feel this, but it can have such an impact. Perhaps for some people it doesn't, and for some it may feel that it shouldn't, but for me it certainly does. I always loathe going clothes shopping, especially for the $ that I would rather spend on things that are locally/ethically made etc, but upon returning home with something lovely I always feel invigorated by the experience. (Obviously I then forget that invigoration and feel a lot of reactance about going shopping again, which is why it doesn't happen very often!)
I also hate going shopping, Nathan! I much prefer to buy online these days as I always end up buying things in a panic in the shop. I prefer to try them at home where I feel more 'myself', though this does then mean returning items sometimes...What I have really found has helped in the past 12 months or so is to nail down exactly what it is that I feel most 'myself' in (in whichever role I'm going to wear the thing) and then try to only buy something that fits with that. I still make mistakes though!
Love all these tips and strategies...as well as confessions. :)
I can only online shop if I really know the brand. I do it mainly in the US where the deals are 🔥 and I can pick it up whenever I'm on my annual trip home. What's interesting online though is that you can - as you say - do it when you're in the right frame of mind.
That's a great strategy. My wife has certainly turned more to online shopping for clothes after identifying the stores that work well and fit well for her.
Such an interesting post, Kate. Thank you. I love your denim outfit. That’s pretty much my wardrobe. Double denim and converse, or denim and checked shirt with converse. In the winter, the same but with docs. Though winter jumpers and huuuuge woolly scarves are my favourite. I don’t think my ‘staple’ style has changed much over the years. Not including the 80s of course... but we won’t talk about that...
How lovely to think that we are twinning as we get carried away in our research and writing! :)
Yes, let's not talk about the 80s is a good MO for most people old enough to have been dressed then, I think. I will admit to having a pair of MC Hammer and Milli Vanilli inspired baggy pants in 5th grade. I'm so pleased there weren't any smartphones back then!
Thanks, Victoria.
We're really going to need a pic of the baggy pants I'm afraid...
Shame, no photos in comments ;)
I went for the horrendous 1980's perm...not my finest hour!
Also - just need to show appreciation for the denim jumpsuit, Kate! Love it :)
Aw shucks. Thank you!
I’d say we should all share our 80s pics, but I’m afraid mine are at the back of a storage unit. Phew! Ohhh, the perm, me too! Held in place by extra strong Insette hairspray :)
Fridman and Friedman in one article :D
It's a delight not knowing what you're going to cover each week, Kate. (Perhaps I should pay more attention to when you mention what's coming, but I enjoy not knowing 😄)
So glad that you enjoyed the podcast!
Fashion. I've been a bit of a bystander, never quite knowing quite what to wear and what suits me, having to rely upon girlfriends and ultimately my wife to advise me best haha. I think that stems from a lot of lack of confidence as a teenager and not being in enough with the "it" crowd to either pay attention to fashion or be bold enough to experiment/go with the trends. However, I really really connected with the discussion in the podcast and your words here about fashion as helping you to play a part in a role. It's certainly helped me. Back when I was a working magician, a smart-casual suit helped to put me within the role I was acting out. Same with teaching and lecturing, I usually start smart and gradually slide towards a more relaxed attire as semester moves on and I get to know my students 😆 I used to think that it was because I cared somehow about the appearance, but it's actually more aligned with the clothes helping to reinforce the character and enabling me to step into that role more easily. I'd say that right up until hearing that podcast I thought that being able to play multiple roles throughout a day/week was some kind of inadequacy, that I should just be myself as much as possible, but it was incredibly refreshing to hear that a chameleonic nature can actually be a valuable skill.
And as always, your wonderful post has sent me down a spiral of thinking, and a rambling reply hehe.
OMG Nathan, I read the top quickly and thought I had made a dreaded typo ;)
The podcast was amazing! I never expected it to say something about fashion. I'm eager to continue listening to both Fridman and Bach.
I like the conclusions you made from the podcast. It's so interesting with the teaching role, isn't it? When I started out, I tried to dress 'older' to gain some gravitas, then became more relaxed, then again back toward 'sophisticated' as I went into leadership. In the end, I think it's how you feel in the clothes. Relatedly, I always enjoyed teaching in high schools without uniforms to allow the kids to really let their personalities shine. (I know there are lots of benefits to school uniforms as well, especially for income disparity.) Of course, at university you get this as well. But I wonder from your description of your teen years if this had anything to do with uniform wearing. I'm only assuming you wore a uniform in the UK? I did not. I had a lot of trial and a LOT of error, but maybe it gave me a sort of safe experimental time for clothing choices. There is also safety in numbers when your friends are wearing similar items. This is a big enough tangent for an article, so I'll pause there. :)
Thank you - as always - for comments that are in turn thought provoking!
I wore a school uniform (which everyone hated, of course) but the school both my kids have attended doesn't. It causes a lot of debate amongst parents, but I agree with you that it allows the personalities to come through. The school is a high achieving secondary in the UK, but the governors and staff always pride themselves on welcoming difference and personal expression, so there are some weird and wonderful examples of fashion on awards evenings and such!!
So interesting!
I also love colorful hair in high schools.
I really think we ought to embrace the experimental teen personas without the need to be cool or succumb to peer pressure. Some people do it very well their whole lives.
My sentiments exactly! :) oh, there are some marvellous hair colours in the school! A work colleague of mine has always had her hair in a rainbow, and I am always amazed by how she does it!
That's interesting. I've always wondered what the proportion of schools that do or don't do this is. I imagine it breeds some bullying, unfortunately, but welcoming difference and personal expression from a young age is likely a good thing.
Hehe sorry I should have included their first names too to make it clear what I had meant ;) Just thought it was an interesting coincidence.
That's fascinating re: your experience, too.
And yes, huh, I'd never thought of that aspect but I *did* have to wear a uniform all through school. There was certainly simplicity in conforming via uniform, but then in A-levels we had freedom to wear what we wanted, and I do remember thinking that I essentially had zero knowledge of what would constitute fashion and I wasn't self-analytical enough at the time to question what it is that I wanted to wear etc.
Ha no I was kidding, all good :)
I can see the comfort of a uniform. I think it’s how I treated “work clothes” for a long time as well. Although not the same every day, it was a kind of uniform for a role - and also with the ease of not choosing all that much. About blending in perhaps.
I think you are right about a uniform helping to align or reinforce the 'role' you are playing at the time is spot on, Nathan!
I love this fashion topic... Kate you look great in your outfit... Maybe a scarf, neckerchief can add a touch of something special too...k If you knew me you'd understand why I say thatl... I am a designer of silk scarves. But wanting to also design in cottons soft materials so this fashion topic interested me immensely. I love the images on the catwalk thank you for sharing these delights.
A silk scarf designer? How wonderful. Feel free to share a link. Whilst living in France, I felt naked without a scarf and have a little collection (nothing like yours, I'm sure!). Good idea :)
I ended up caring more about fashion after moving abroad; in California the incentive to be fashionable was simply not strong enough. And Europeans place more importance on it; integration/assimilation means having to care. But I also liked that in France the brand mattered little, if at all. More important was how an individual could customize their fashion accessories in order to produce an individual mix. What made me appreciate fashion more was how, in France at least, it is the last form of artistic expression that is truly individualistic.
I spend more money on books than clothes, like Desiderus Erasmus. But if I was more of a dandy I'd invest in styles that reconnect with cultural uniqueness. Nordic fashion, for instance, has a regional distinctness I like. I don't like the bland sameyness that many call fashion nowadays, and it's bittersweet looking at the old photos and seeing what was lost.
Even so, I maintain that the utility of the t-shirt should not be underestimated. Whether it's love of a band or adherence to a cause, it's the most effective way of communicating certain things that one might otherwise have to be delicate about. :-)
Thanks for this wonderful reflection, Felix. I can relate with this change from the US to Europe. Your ideas about Nordic fashion are especially interesting. I don't know a lot about it, but I could see that. I think there is much more to explore...
I'm off just now to a French bookshop just over the border. Likewise, these spaces take a lot of my cash :)
Very interesting article, Kate. I'm not that interested in fashion per se, but have always been interested in how it reflects the (forthcoming) economic climate.
I do, however, have a thing about dressing well in public, even if just casual wear. For example, when I worked as a teacher, plus in local govt, central gov and then independently, I always wore a suit and tie or jacket and tie. As a teacher it was to act as a role model to the students and to show them respect. in my other roles it was in order to gain respect. I get quite annoyed when I go to, say, an education conference/exhibition and am "served" by someone in jeans and a t-shirt. I just think, if I'm here to potentially spend several thousand pounds on your product, the least you might do is not look like you've just tipped out of bed. Sorry if that sounds snobbish.
I often dress according to the task I'm doing. I wrote about this in a jokey way here -- https://terryfreedman.substack.com/i/135231849/dressing-up but I do actually think it helps to get one into the right frame of mind.
Thanks for the link to the FT article. I missed that so I'm looking forward to digging in for a long read.
Thanks for sharing your article! This is becoming a hyper doc of some other great texts.
I know what you mean re teaching and attending lectures (or when I used to hire teachers...). I think sometimes the casual choice is a conscious statement, against authority for example, however I think there is not so much a line but a language of clothing that one should be aware of. You make your choice accordingly. Personally, I just felt more professional and confident in that kind of clothing most days while teaching. I didn’t mind if I was heading off to coach or something like this and wore casual clothes for that reason. Then the students could see another side as well, but a minority of the time.
Point about economic climate also important!
Agree with casual clothing that shows another side. Re last point: indeed. You know about the hemline index I presume?
Are any ankles still visible in England? 😉
Fewer and fewer 😉
Thanks for this, Kate. A lot of food for thought. You managed to make it interesting even to me even though I usually only admire fashion from afar.
I would define my fashion style as non-committal - or bland, as my wife puts it. My ideal fashionista is Jeff Goldblum's character in "The Fly" - a scientist who owns about ten identical suits, so he doesn't have to waste time every morning deciding what to wear.
Believe it or not, I have not worn denim for more than 20 years. Too cold in winter, and wearing blue jeans in summer in Japan feels like self-inflicted torture to me.
Sorry I can't send you a photo of me wearing my writing clothes... In Yokohama it's still hot and muggy, so I'm almost naked.
You have a lot of practical applications. That’s great! I like your icon choice 😂 very nice. Well sometimes the argument for uniform is simply saving time. It seems to me you have a lot of things you are doing and working on, so maybe fashion just gets int he way!
Thanks for reading and thanks for not leaving a photo ;)
Loved this! I’ve come full circle. The corporate business suit-and heels-days are mercifully over and I’m back in my Bean boots and flannel shirts. (NB: this doesn’t translate well to the Arizona desert)
Ha, I bet it doesn't!
Oh I know the Bean boots so well, though. Gave up my pair when I moved to Hong Kong. Could be time for the next edition. How did we wear heels everyday?
Happy you can get my Freeport references.
Thank you, I am enjoying my designing - today I am illustrating a dog for a book I am planning ... That is very kind of you to allow me to show a link - I am based in England I only make what is needed - so as to eliminate extras anywhere. I guess it makes my scarves more unique with limits - I can offer varying colourways to suit ...hope you like my new designs 7 silk scarves.
https://tracycatchpoleart.com/7-silk-scarves let me know what your thoughts are, you are welcome to subscribe too.
So glad you like
A great set of ideas and videos about fashion, Kate, thanks for this brilliant post. Loved the David Bowie video from 1972.
My relationship to fashion has totally changed as I've got older. I used to spend way more time and money on my wardrobe than I do now, I guess as I was figuring out how I wanted to present myself to the world. It doesn't take up much of my headspace anymore, so I have a few staples that are gradually getting more and more worn out. And occasionally my wife will add something in to my wardrobe for me that she finds on Vinted or in a charity shop whilst looking for stuff for herself.
What a great reflection. This is possibly true for many of us, I think? Although at times of transition, I guess I still spend a little more time on the clothing once again as a reflection of the changes (as I mention in the embedded “Modern Women” article - work, maternity, etc.).
I recall many outings to Urban Outfitters (and the vintage bargain basement) as well as other exciting Cambridge (MA) destinations in my teen years that lasted HOURS. Now, when I go to Urban, I know what I want a lot more quickly and possibly have less ambling time on my hands. It’s also great to have those gifted items — something somebody who cares for you imagines as ‘very you’. My husband also does this occasionally and although sometimes I’m not sure about said item at first, I tend to warm into it.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts and all the kind words!
I think time has got a lot to do with it. My relationship with time is so fraught. Sometimes I wear the same outfit for days because it's comfortable and I have no space in my brain to think of anything else. I love how my wife wears something different and interesting every day, gets 'properly' dressed, and I wish I felt like I had capacity to do that.
It's so different for me working from home now. I try to wear something put together for school drop off, but occasionally it's running gear -- I simply pretend I'm on my way for a jog. And there is always the denim jumpsuit. Occasionally, I get freaked out by not being a 'part of society' if I haven't put myself together for public spaces. I see this in contrast to my husband as well. More often, though, I find it freeing to be able to code switch at will. I think it depends how I'm feeling about my writing on that particular day!
Yes, I know what you mean about being put together for public spaces. What motivates me most to put any thought into my outfit is if I know I'm going to be actively looked at - i.e. if I'm going to a meeting or seeing friends or teaching (or if I'm going to see my mother). Otherwise it's just what's comfortable, clean, and in my sight line. Sometimes I feel bad for my wife that she mostly sees me wearing a t-shirt and track pants again.
The McQueen installation at the Met was breathtaking. Did you see it?
Tell us more!
The exhibit was in 2011 so I’m mostly recalling the presentation in the installation of his gothic gowns and his exotic flowing gown creations which stood out the most. The exhibit spanned his post graduate career until his last runway show in 2010. I remember attendees just gaping in awe. If you google SAVAGE McQueen exhibit at the Met and V&A there is a trove of photo’s and articles that my memory and writing skills can not do it justice.
I remember hearing a lot about it. Here's a youtube - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pg0HwLAJyV0
Thanks for sharing your memory of it!
Thank you. Will make my morning watching it!
I liked the fact you started by saying about the inner strength gained from your peers when they donned on the 'cape of power' be it a hat, a robe, it was of great interest to learn about your experiences.... However to brush by so many elements of history of art, design and culture, not mentioning the opulance and stature needed by a few to be shown to the masses, to warrant position, power and intrigue.
I am a royalist and I like to keep our countries heritage of the royal family in high regards and respect its heritage and history, even though there have been dark phases, it has brought us to a time where we are able to question right from wrong, and although history CANNOT be re written of prefabricated it now has a chance to grow with a righteous and healthy opinion and purpose. Helping more whom truly need help.
It is a shame that the frivolity of the fashion world like to down grade the royals, it is unashamedly in poor taste, especially as many see the Royal family as a measure of our stability in a world that is so volatile..
Monarchy and all it stands for does bring a vast amount of wealth to our country, the way our King, (as when he was a Prince) and now, has been manifesting such established colleges, and fine architecture in Cornwall, now had to pass the baton to Prince William, it is in itself a powerful dressing of fashion in the form of bricks and mortar but also in its culture nurturing future trades, and artisan arts and crafts for the future, aswell as offering a good process of sustainable agriculture and local farming, this too is another form of dressing our country in the form of land, trees, foliage, flora and fauna, which in turn offers the ability to make clothing for local future fashion within our towns of England, Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland.
Especially as the heritage, culture, fashion, exquisite cloths of times even before 2000BC in my mind is like a dream so far away.... And our own heritage of royalty spans milleneums, a family being royal encapsulates a world few of us really would like, but the old power of royalty donned on those capes to win battles, fight for freedoms, and encouraged wealth into our building heritage with Royalty Aids, through the ages. They too were aspiring for attention so they could enjoy wealth and high life, enabling a strong future existence of life, for their children and future children...
Times move fast these days, we used to say old news of yesterday were tomorrow's fish and chip wrappings ...(.l must mention we were so eco friendly right there.)
I'd love to hear more about the history, culture of linens, silks, cottons and how it became so famous with the silk road, oplulent times, opulent clothing,.
We all like to be seen at our best, special functions, yet we did also like to dress more, respectfully daily...it has all changed, seeing people in housecoats in the streets... Where has dignity gone?
What I can never quite get to grips with is... I can understand wanting to show how great one looks, but why then show themselves at their worst?
If fashion, top fashion is what we like to see, why isn't it being reflected in the everyday people's world...
At a lighter budget...
Everyday Quality of clothing has downgraded for sure, there now needs to be a force for quality, organic, long lasting materials, no plastic recycled clothing which is harmful to our skins promoting cancers, but organic, sustainable, quality made, garments for beautiful fashion for all to buy at a price which is sensible, fair and have the special pieces for special occasions...
I too went off on many tangents, easily done, with such a huge topic... I think breaking it down into bite size topics will be fun to read, and a rewarding piece of literature, rather than scanning lots of data.
Refining and defining specifics is a great way for the topic of fashion to be expressed over vast historical eras, encapsulating differing cultures.
Climates of varying countries not just its weather, but its social and economical climates have all played a part in the growth of fashion today, and at the front if it all is
😊 what the people admire,
😊 why they admire it, and
😊 how it makes them feel, to be part of their culture, their time, sharing with their friends and family...
Do we conform to fashion, or are we steering the fashion of clothing, to fit our times our changing world.
Thank you for sharing your writings today, I hope you didn't mind me responding...
Best wishes
Tracy
Some very interesting directions, Tracy! Thank you for reading and joining the discussion.