The Adriatic, squid, olive groves
One of the most romantic road trips ever took us around the Adriatic from Venice to Istria to Zagreb a gazillion years ago, before the breakup of Yugoslavia. The fog coming into Trieste was literally a pea soup, with nary a daredevil Italian driver slowing down for it. Women in the fields were still threshing the grain by hand.
I tried to find a train route through here and down through Albania and Montenegro to Greece for this fall, but seems to be still disrupted. Not sure if the Italians would appreciate us taking a rental car into the former Yugos, much less Greece.
All looks stunning and beautiful and makes me want to embrace the Mediterranean lifestyle.
I camped in Trieste in my early 20s on a long trip around Europe (I think we went to Slovenia afterwards).
Feeling like a local is often some of the best parts of travelling, especially when you get to slow down and be in a place for some amount of time. I love that. Last year we did the Amalfi coast and during that we stayed quite high up in the hills above Amalfi for a few days with the most kind and caring family running a B&B. Retreating there each night (after the relative chaos of Amalfi and Ravello) and waking up there each morning felt like bliss and some real moments of slow time and being made to feel so welcome made it feel super special.
Oh my, this piece flooded my mind with memories of my travels in Croatia in 2018. I was invited to speak at a humanities conference in Dubrovnik, and I fell more and more in love with the city with every new sight and smell.
On our final day, my husband and I ventured off to Lokrum, where we enjoyed a fabulous lunch while surrounded by lush olive trees, medieval ruins baking in the late September sun, and many a wandering peacock. (Descendants of those Archduke Maximilian brought to the island in the mid-19th century.)
Thank you for sharing your travels — and for triggering a whole lot of memories for me!
It looks absolutely beautiful. Thank you for the escapism, Kate!
I've never been to Croatia, and haven't really thought about it. But this makes me want to go!
Well that's the cheapest, easiest holiday I've ever had! Please keep these articles coming. Absolutely wonderful!
A very stimulating read so I'll confine my comments to: Sea Organ! Wow! - and a tip for travel sickness that you probably already know. If you're in the car tell your little boy to look straight ahead, not down, not to the side, and the nausea will go. I know - probably impossible with a wriggly little traveller but maybe if it makes him feel better he might do it?
Thank you so much for this one Kate. Never been to any of those lovely places and I really enjoyed it.