One of the most romantic road trips ever took us around the Adriatic from Venice to Istria to Zagreb a gazillion years ago, before the breakup of Yugoslavia. The fog coming into Trieste was literally a pea soup, with nary a daredevil Italian driver slowing down for it. Women in the fields were still threshing the grain by hand.
I tried to find a train route through here and down through Albania and Montenegro to Greece for this fall, but seems to be still disrupted. Not sure if the Italians would appreciate us taking a rental car into the former Yugos, much less Greece.
I'm not sure the rental car would be a problem? Don't know, could be worth a shot. But yes, agree car is easiest around there. Some friends of mine also took the ferry from Venice to Pula which they said had incredible views.
All looks stunning and beautiful and makes me want to embrace the Mediterranean lifestyle.
I camped in Trieste in my early 20s on a long trip around Europe (I think we went to Slovenia afterwards).
Feeling like a local is often some of the best parts of travelling, especially when you get to slow down and be in a place for some amount of time. I love that. Last year we did the Amalfi coast and during that we stayed quite high up in the hills above Amalfi for a few days with the most kind and caring family running a B&B. Retreating there each night (after the relative chaos of Amalfi and Ravello) and waking up there each morning felt like bliss and some real moments of slow time and being made to feel so welcome made it feel super special.
That BnB sounds amazing. I think often where you're staying can make all the difference. Like you say, you can jump into the thick of it then retreat and hopefully start the day with a local breakfast.
And camping in Trieste sounds like fun! Was it a literary pilgrimage?
Oh my, this piece flooded my mind with memories of my travels in Croatia in 2018. I was invited to speak at a humanities conference in Dubrovnik, and I fell more and more in love with the city with every new sight and smell.
On our final day, my husband and I ventured off to Lokrum, where we enjoyed a fabulous lunch while surrounded by lush olive trees, medieval ruins baking in the late September sun, and many a wandering peacock. (Descendants of those Archduke Maximilian brought to the island in the mid-19th century.)
Thank you for sharing your travels — and for triggering a whole lot of memories for me!
Well that's the cheapest, easiest holiday I've ever had! Please keep these articles coming. Absolutely wonderful!
A very stimulating read so I'll confine my comments to: Sea Organ! Wow! - and a tip for travel sickness that you probably already know. If you're in the car tell your little boy to look straight ahead, not down, not to the side, and the nausea will go. I know - probably impossible with a wriggly little traveller but maybe if it makes him feel better he might do it?
Thank you so much for this one Kate. Never been to any of those lovely places and I really enjoyed it.
Thanks for the tip! :) We are using a car this summer so will try it. (We don't own one in Switzerland, so part of it is maybe not knowing what to do with himself in the car!)
And thanks as well for such a lovely comment here and on Notes. Happy the beauty of Istria came through a little bit here. You never know if you're capturing it for others as well. If you do go in person, definitely check out the Sea Organ! The tinsy-tiny city on top of it is also such a treat.
One of the most romantic road trips ever took us around the Adriatic from Venice to Istria to Zagreb a gazillion years ago, before the breakup of Yugoslavia. The fog coming into Trieste was literally a pea soup, with nary a daredevil Italian driver slowing down for it. Women in the fields were still threshing the grain by hand.
I tried to find a train route through here and down through Albania and Montenegro to Greece for this fall, but seems to be still disrupted. Not sure if the Italians would appreciate us taking a rental car into the former Yugos, much less Greece.
Wow, sounds incredible. Love the imagery!
I'm not sure the rental car would be a problem? Don't know, could be worth a shot. But yes, agree car is easiest around there. Some friends of mine also took the ferry from Venice to Pula which they said had incredible views.
Thanks for your comment, Glinda.
All looks stunning and beautiful and makes me want to embrace the Mediterranean lifestyle.
I camped in Trieste in my early 20s on a long trip around Europe (I think we went to Slovenia afterwards).
Feeling like a local is often some of the best parts of travelling, especially when you get to slow down and be in a place for some amount of time. I love that. Last year we did the Amalfi coast and during that we stayed quite high up in the hills above Amalfi for a few days with the most kind and caring family running a B&B. Retreating there each night (after the relative chaos of Amalfi and Ravello) and waking up there each morning felt like bliss and some real moments of slow time and being made to feel so welcome made it feel super special.
That BnB sounds amazing. I think often where you're staying can make all the difference. Like you say, you can jump into the thick of it then retreat and hopefully start the day with a local breakfast.
And camping in Trieste sounds like fun! Was it a literary pilgrimage?
Heh, nah, it was a summer camping trip with a couple of uni mates.
A beer pilgrimage, more like ;)
Ha, even better.
From the hazy memories, I think it was a good time 😁
Oh my, this piece flooded my mind with memories of my travels in Croatia in 2018. I was invited to speak at a humanities conference in Dubrovnik, and I fell more and more in love with the city with every new sight and smell.
On our final day, my husband and I ventured off to Lokrum, where we enjoyed a fabulous lunch while surrounded by lush olive trees, medieval ruins baking in the late September sun, and many a wandering peacock. (Descendants of those Archduke Maximilian brought to the island in the mid-19th century.)
Thank you for sharing your travels — and for triggering a whole lot of memories for me!
Wow, this sounds like a luscious memory. When I do get to Dubrovnik one day, I'll try this tangent. Late September seems like the perfect time...
Thanks Michael.
It looks absolutely beautiful. Thank you for the escapism, Kate!
Thank you, Victoria!
I've never been to Croatia, and haven't really thought about it. But this makes me want to go!
Go, go! I haven't even mentioned so many wonderful things about the islands and around Split. Very easy to get to from the UK.
Well that's the cheapest, easiest holiday I've ever had! Please keep these articles coming. Absolutely wonderful!
A very stimulating read so I'll confine my comments to: Sea Organ! Wow! - and a tip for travel sickness that you probably already know. If you're in the car tell your little boy to look straight ahead, not down, not to the side, and the nausea will go. I know - probably impossible with a wriggly little traveller but maybe if it makes him feel better he might do it?
Thank you so much for this one Kate. Never been to any of those lovely places and I really enjoyed it.
Thanks for the tip! :) We are using a car this summer so will try it. (We don't own one in Switzerland, so part of it is maybe not knowing what to do with himself in the car!)
And thanks as well for such a lovely comment here and on Notes. Happy the beauty of Istria came through a little bit here. You never know if you're capturing it for others as well. If you do go in person, definitely check out the Sea Organ! The tinsy-tiny city on top of it is also such a treat.